Dear vintage watch enthusiasts, especially vintage Omega watch lovers,
In this article, I will explain how I inspect and rate vintage Omega watches before buying.
Literally, inspections are based on personal experiences.
I will split the inatch inspection experience into two parts to simplify and not confuse your minds. It is about how many Omegas you met, bought, and spent time on, and how much you read and researched about them.
So I strongly recommend that you spend time reading, especially in the sections devoted to the watch's main parts, such as the movement, case, screen, crown, strap, and buckle.
Each topic can be a primary topic, and I could write pages on each. And yes, soon, I will do that. Let's talk about them one by one briefly to give you an idea and also time to do your research.
We will take a sample watch and inspect it with you. While inspecting, we will compare the details and rates and draw a conclusion. This will be soon.
Briefly for now:
First step is always identification of the watch's reference number. You will find the reference number in the caseback. Most of the vintage watches reference numbers are there; in the caseback, not "on the caseback' like today's watches. So you must open the watch and check the number at firts. Reference number will give you all the information about the watch's case shape, dial design, and more important the movements used in those referece numbered watches. By extracting the information based on the reference number, you will compare the mentioned details with your watch you are inspecting.
A. The Movement :The most important part of the inspection is the inspection of the movement.
Check the movement number, and check if this movement is a movement used in the watches with your reference number. More clear; when you search the reference number you will find the movements with their numbers used for that reference number watches.
So if your movement number was one of them then you can goto the second step and check the movement parts. In this step, you will search your movement's details based on the movement number. Ranfft is an excellent source for movement searches. For example if your movement is caliber 283, you will find all the technical details, picture and measurements of the original caliber on Ranfft like this: https://ranfft.org/caliber/8398-Omega-283
Now you can compare your movements details with the original one.
Once we are sure that your movement is a movement for your watchs reference number, and also sure that your caliber is matching with the original one and authentic, next step will be the condition inspection. In this step check carefully especially the scratches on the movement, on the rotor, and screws. Check the screw colors even if they are matching or not. This step is more about the condition of your movement and how it was serviced before rather than verifying the authenticity.
B. The Case : Based on the reference number check if your case shape, sizes, and material are matching with the reference number or not. When you type the reference number on Google, it will bring you the similar watches with yours. Check if your case is same with them. Sometime you will find your watch on Omega's original webpage as well.
Ensure that your case is one of the cases used under your reference number.
C. Crown : Same way above you can check if the crown belongs to the reference number or not. Besides since the crown is a sensitive part of the watch, generally people are careless, break it, and change the crown by the time. Or if your watch is a manual winding watch, it is normal that it could be changed because or the worn caused by everyday winding. You may find out that crown is changed or not easily based on the reference number information.
Frankly talking, if the crown is changed, it is not a big issue unless its replaced with an original one.
D. Dial & Numerals & Hands & Luming : This topic seriously needs a long and detailed information. Briefly, based on the reference number and original design, we check the dial color, if wordings and fonts on the dial are proper and matching with Omega standards or not, if the 'Swiss Made' wording is proper or not and matching with the year ( if the luming is by trithium you have to see " T SWISS MADE T" ) if hands design is matching with the reference number or not, also the numerals, how the numbers are placed, minute lines are proportionally distributed or not, you have to check if the hands lumination is the same as with the numerals lumination (if there is no lumination on the hands, dial has to be also plain without lumination). All these details will give us if the dial is redialed, repainted, original or not.
E. Strap/Bracelet : Generally Omegas manufactured before 70s were with leather straps. Although some vintage watches have their original straps on, and strap is preserved, most of them will come up with replaced straps. This is expected and having an original strap will increase the price of the watch approx 20%.
However, if the watch was manufactured with a bracelet, then expecting the original bracelet today is acceptable. Original bracelet completes the authenticity of a watch but still it is not a big issue if you focus on the watch.
When it comes the verification of a bracelet, we check the endlinks, and match the numbers engraved on the endlinks with the reference number of the watch again.
F. Buckle/Clasp : As a part of the bracelet clasp needs to be verified as well. Since its the most worn part of the watch, and used alot when wearing and removing, it could be damaged so could be replaced. We refer to the reference number and endlinks number again to inspect and verify the clasp type. When it comes to buckle, Omega had used different buckle manufacturers in the past and you will find their logos in the back side of the buckle. That logo will be a good sign even a proof that the buckle is an original one or not.
In my workshop, I have a digital microscope and I do all the inspection by a microscope. I have a big archive of the movements and Omega vintage reference numbers. As mentioned above, these will not be enough to be 100% sure about the authenticity if you do not search, read, and get experience in how to do inspections.
Hopefully soon I am planning to go into the above details with samples and prepare more articles on the subject for you.
Erkan